An exotic Bangladeshi Food Festival was held in the heart of Bangla Britain. Located around the Cafe Naz at 46/48 Brick Lane in Londons East End, this culinary exotica was supported by Cobra Indian Beer and featured contemporary Bangladeshi cusine.
Flying in Robert Gomes, Executive Chef of the five star Sheraton Hotel in Dhaaka, the capital of Bangladesh, to head a special team of chefs for the Festival, Cafe Naz owner, Muquim Ahmed said that, although Bangladeshi cusine had its own identity, separate from that of India, it shared many similiarities with Indian cusine, especially in regard to the Mughal influences which spread throughout the subcontinent and from which regional variations emerged. Owner Ahmed continued, "We asked Chef Gomes to concentrate on what is essentially Bangladeshi, because Cafe Naz is situated in the heart of a Bangladeshi community and also because, despite the fact that the majority of Indian restaurants are owned and run by Bangladeshis, the real flavours of the authentic Bangladeshi culinary experience are rarely found in the U.K."
As the ancients declared, "In the beginning was Hunger. And Hunger told us when we should eat. Then there was Taste. And Taste told us what we should eat. Later came Civilization, and Hunger and Taste became utterly confused and stopped being the reliable guides they had hitherto been." However, the wise writings of the ancients have provided a map to better understanding. Eating is the creative act that selects the raw matter of the world that will be turned into ones self.
We were all born with the capability of choosing the most appropriate diet tailored to our individual needs. But the instinct is shrouded in confusion. The ancients offered guidance on choosing which produce to buy, constructing menus, the best cooking techniques, and even what kind of enviroment one should be eating in. And all without reference to vitamins or fibre or diets. And so todays cooks strive endlessly to produce what they believe to be a balanced menu.
The preparation of food is central to the way of life in the East. There is little restaurant cooking of the kind typical of the West, and what little there is is done by men. Men cook where there is money involved, but the best food is found in private homes where recipes and techniques are handed down from mother to daughter and women accept this as part of their role.
As it is a new restaurant specialising in contemporary Bangladeshi cusine served in surroundings not typical of the Brick Lane dining experience, Cafe Naz also offers traditional apperitifs such as Tetul Pani - a tamarind drink flavoured with ginger, cumin, and mint leaves. The AA Sherber, on the other hand, is a cold, though spicy, mango drink.
The salad section features Macher Bharta - a blend of flaked white fish, prawns, dry chilli, onion coriander leaves, lime juice and mustard oil. This was sensationally good, fragrant with the spices and flaking away in succulent sections at the press of a fork.
Soups include the Chingree Palok - curry-flavoured thick spinach and potato soup with shrimps. Among the vegetable dishes, the Chana Dal Tarka got a thumbs-up, being fabulously creamy and containing mixed vegetables, tempered and lightly spiked with Cafe Naz five-spice. The Bangladeshi Kacchi Biriyani, a spiced lamb dish cooked with Basmati rice, potatoes, dry plums and saffron is cooked with a flavour that spoke of approval. It was a happy, smiling dish.
Cafe Naz is one of a new breed of Asian restaurants and its prices are amongst the most reasonable in town. For all these reasons, it is highly recommended. It must also be said that congratulations are in order for Sharnita and her colleagues at Media Moguls (that well-known Asian publicity firm) for organising such a splendid food festival in the heart of Bangla London.
Cafe Naz is at 46/48 Brick Lane, London E1 6RF.
Tel: 0171 247 0234
Fax: 0171 377 1139